The first step is to remove your old sump pump, but before you begin cutting the PVC pipe, its important for safety reasons to unplug your existing sump pump. Remember that the Easy Sump comes pre-plumbed up to the check valve - with your tape measure, simply measure the height of the Easy Sump from the base to the top of the check valve and subtract 3/4 of an inch. Then drop the tape measure into the bottom of your sump pit and mark your cut line on the discharge pipe. Next, grab your hack saw and cut horizontally through the pipe until you have cut completely through the pipe. Depending on where your current check valve is, there may be some excess water in the discharge pipe - simply allow the water to drip into your sump pit.

Next, remove your old pump from the sump pit and drop in the Easy Sump, making sure that the vertical float switch can operate freely inside the sump pit. Next, run the power cord and piggyback switch cord through the correct hole in the sump pit cover.

Once the Easy Sump is firmly seated in the base of the pit, connect the check valve to the existing discharge pipe and clamp it securely.

Next, secure the cords high up and around the pipe with a zip tie and plug the pump into a standard household 15-amp outlet. The circuit should be dedicated to the sump pump exclusively, and remember not to handle the pump while it is plugged in, whether it is running or not.

Finally, you can check the pump's operation by filling the sump pit with water until the pump starts. Let it run until it has pumped down the sump and stopped. Once you are satisfied that the pump is operating properly, replace the sump pit cover - congratulations, mere minutes have passed by and you have successfully installed your Easy Sump Sump Pump!

The pump normally requires only a screwdriver and hacksaw to get it installed in your sump pit. No power tools or specialty tools are required. Since it plugs directly into a standard 115v outlet, in most cases there is no electrical work required, either.

A screwdriver will be needed to tighten the hose clamps that come with the system. You may need to cut your discharge pipe to the proper length for this pump to sit in place. If you have PVC or other hard plastic pipe for discharge, a standard hacksaw will cut it nicely. If you use a hose for discharge, you may need a utility knife to cut through that.

Yes, there may be water in the discharge pipe. It depends a bit on where your existing check valve is, how recently the pump has run, etc. There is no simple clean way to release the water back into your pit. So the best way is probably to mark the current discharge pipe at a point XXXXX" above the floor of your sump pit. (If the new pump will sit on a block or something, add the height of that you're your measurement.) Now use some duct tape or similar to attach an old bath or hand towel to the pipe above your cutting mark so that it hangs down covering the area where you'll cut. Now reach in with a hacksaw under the towel and cut on your mark. When you get through the surface of the pipe water will start to come out. Stop at that point and let the pipe drain. The towel is there in case the water has any pressure to it and wants to spray out. Once the water has stopped, you can remove the towel and continue cutting the pipe through the rest of the way. Keep in mind that there still may be water above the existing check valve. If that valve leaks a little, water may continue to come down the pipe. We recommend you NOT use a power saw for this because the water may get into the motor of the saw and cause an electrical hazard.

The pump should not be installed on a flat floor so you'll need a pit. Minimum size is 10" in diameter and 10" deep. Bigger is much better. You will need an outlet within reach of the pump's 8' cord. We recommend the outlet be the only thing on the circuit breaker that provides power to it. In addition, you will need sufficient amount of 1 3/4" or 1 1/2" PVC pipe to reach from the pump's discharge up to the point in your wall where you will run it to the outside. You will need an elbow at that point and enough 1 3/4" or 1 1/2" (or larger) PVC or hose to run outside to the point of discharge. Naturally, if there is no hole in the wall where you'll run the pipe through, you will need the tools needed to create the hole and then seal up the hole around the PVC once the discharge pipe is in place. These tools will vary depending upon the material your walls are constructed of. You also need to consult your local building codes to verify how they require a sump discharge be set up.

The rubber "boot" at the top of the check valve can be turned upside-down to allow connection of smaller 1 3/4" pipe. Loosen the clamp on the check valve side of the upper boot. Remove the boot and turn it upside down. Put the clamp back on to that and tighten it. Now your 1 1/4" discharge pipe will slip into the top of that rubber connector boot and you can continue.

We strongly recommend you do not. We recommend that the pump be plugged directly into a grounded outlet that is serviced by its own circuit breaker (or fuse). If you don't have a good outlet close enough to the sump pit, have a qualified electrician install one there. If you MUST use an extension cord make sure that it is a grounded cord, with heavy enough gauge wire for the length. In general, 14 gauge is the minimum. If longer than 20' to 25' use minimum 12 gauge. Heavier gauge cords will be needed for longer runs. Always use grounded cords with 3-prong connectors.